Myrkdalen in March: A Ski Trip to Remember

Last March, I found myself in Myrkdalen, a small mountain village tucked into the fjords and valleys of Western Norway. I’d heard whispers about it being one of Norway’s best-kept secrets for skiing, and I have to admit, it completely lived up to the hype.

The first thing that struck me when I arrived was how relaxed everything felt. No frantic ski queues, no jostling for space, just wide-open runs framed by dramatic peaks and a sense that time moved a little slower here. It’s the kind of place where you step outside your hotel, clip into your skis, and glide straight down to the lifts. I couldn’t help but smile at the simplicity of it all.

On the Slopes

Myrkdalen’s slopes are perfect for shaking off rusty legs. I started in the beginner area, more out of curiosity than necessity, you understand! But I was impressed by how easy and unintimidating it was. The progression from gentle blues to more varied terrain higher up the mountain felt natural.

Most of my days were spent cruising the long, flowing red runs, fast enough to get the adrenaline going but forgiving enough to relax into. There are a couple of blacks too, which I tested on a bright, crisp morning, but what really stood out was the off-piste. After a light snowfall one evening, I ducked just beyond the marked pistes and found myself in untouched powder fields. It felt like having the mountain to myself.

Off the Slopes

Ski trips for me are as much about the atmosphere as the skiing, and Myrkdalen didn’t disappoint. One evening, I joined a snowshoe walk into the quiet forests around the resort. The only sounds were the crunch of snow underfoot and the occasional laughter from the group. We ended up gathered around a fire, hands wrapped around mugs of hot Gløgg while a local guide shared Norwegian stories. It was the perfect way to slow down after a day on the mountain.

On another day, I took a break from skiing altogether and hopped on an excursion to the Nærøyfjord. Even in winter, the fjord’s still waters and sheer cliffs were astonishing. I also ticked off the famous Flåm Railway, a journey I’d wanted to do for years. Watching the landscape unfold from the train window was every bit as magical as I’d hoped.

Eating My Way Around Myrkdalen

Food was another highlight. Every afternoon seemed to involve waffles at the Myrkdalsstovo Welcome Centre Café, crisp on the outside, soft on the inside, with just the right amount of sweetness. I tried their sandwiches too, but honestly, the waffles became a bit of a ritual.

Dinner was a tougher decision. The pizza at Restaurant Tunet was a surprise hit (who knew I’d be raving about pizza in Norway?), while Nuten Fondue offered a more social, alpine-style evening. Sitting around a pot of bubbling cheese with bread, potatoes, and cured meats felt indulgent in the best way. I also treated myself to afternoon tea at the Myrkdalen Hotel one snowy day, scones, cakes, the works. Not something I expected to find in the Norwegian mountains, but it was a welcome comfort.

Après and Evenings

Après-ski in Myrkdalen is low-key, but I liked that about it. Pudder After-Ski was the hub of activity, and I ended up there most evenings. A DJ set the tone after the lifts closed, and while it never tipped into chaos, there was enough atmosphere to keep the energy alive. On Friday night, the place reopened later, and it turned into a small nightclub, unexpected but fun.

Winding Down

My favourite way to end the trip, though, was in the Mountain Sauna at the Myrkdalen Hotel. Floor-to-ceiling windows looked out onto snow-covered slopes while the heat seeped into tired muscles. Sitting there, steam rising, I thought about how special this little resort felt.

Myrkdalen might not be the biggest name in European skiing, but maybe that’s what makes it so memorable. Wide, empty pistes, incredible off-piste, warm hospitality, and those waffles, what more could you ask for?

Things to do in Myrkdalen other than downhill skiing

• Cross-country skiing, there are 30km of trails and a 5km loop. I’m afraid I don’t have the energy levels to even try cross-country skiing, but it’s there if you fancy trying.
• Night skiing is offered every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. I couldn’t resist trying this and hoping to get a glimpse of the Northern Lights, but sadly, on my night, thick clouds spoiled any chances.
• Sledging is available at a small additional charge. Forget the old wooden sledges of our youth; the snow racers of the modern sledge are much more fun; the whole slope from the top to the bottom is your race track. A family package is available for 2 adults and 3 children for £67.
• Snowshoeing is offered every Tuesday, a 2-hour guided tour off piste through the frozen forest to the Laavo for a warmup by the fire and a hot traditional Norwegian drink.
• Definitely don’t miss the Fjord cruise and Flam Railway excursion from Myrdalen. The trip on an electric cruise ship takes about 2 hours and takes in the magnificence of Norwegian snow-capped mountains, frozen waterfalls and deep valleys.

Where to stay in Myrdalen: Right now, you only have one choice, but you certainly won’t be disappointed. Myrkdalen Hotel is a 4* half-board hotel. Our packages include direct flights from London Gatwick, resort transfers by coach, which are stunning, and are also included. Prices start at just £903pp, and you will probably get a BOGOF deal on the ski pass too.